Quantcast
Channel: Couture Allure Vintage Fashion
Viewing all 279 articles
Browse latest View live

Mollie Parnis Dress - 1956

$
0
0
"My dear, you're the most exciting woman in this room...in a Mollie Parnis dress of William Rose black taffeta. 125.00"

This dress had every opportunity of being austere with its long sleeves and solid black color.  But note how Parnis offsets that by making the neckline as wide as it can be with the sleeves sitting just at the very edge of the shoulders.  Those shoulders become the center of attention, don't they?

Dress by Mollie Parnis shown in a full page ad for Harper's Bazaar, December 1956.

Cute Ideas for Wearing Vintage Scarves

$
0
0
This full page ad for Kimball scarves is from 1949.  "4 clever little tricks with a knack for turning a costume into a wardrobe.  Wear them in gay ways for occasions galore - they're pure silk and hand-rolled and sized just right for your Summer ensembles.  All the colors you could possibly want."

Top left:  "wear it tantalizingly at the base of your plunge neckline"
Top right: "tie it as a cravat adding a chic color note at the throat"
Lower left:  "create the brilliant French touch with flowing wing knot"
Lower right:  "sport a vivid dickey and a twin hipline fillip"

Speaking of scarves, I have a fabulous selection right now at Couture Allure, including designer silk scarves from Wesley Simpson, Vera, Giorgio Sant'Angelo, Albert Nipon, Glentex and more.  Vintage scarves make great holiday gifts!

Kimball ad scanned from Mademoiselle magazine, May 1949.


Coco Chanel's Personal Wardrobe Auction in 1978

$
0
0
On December 2, 1978, Christie's in London auctioned the personal wardrobe of Coco Chanel which had been bequeathed to Lilian Grumbach (center above) upon Chanel's death in 1971.  At the time, auctioning of "used clothing" or "personal wardrobes" was not the norm, in fact far from it.  There was a lot of speculation prior to the auction about who would want to buy the "out-of-date" clothing and jewelry from an auction house that normally specialized in fine art and antiques.  The House of Chanel itself was floundering in the late 70s and would not become a sensation again until 1983, when Karl Lagerfeld was hired.

Lilian Grumbach was press representative and closest personal associate to Chanel during the last 14 years of her life.  She was also heir to Chanel's personal effects.  The auction consisted of about 40 suits and dresses, either worn personally by Chanel herself or designed by her and kept as part of her personal collection.  There were also 44 pieces of jewelry and 36 other accessories (presumably handbags and such.) 

The auction was attended by museums, department stores, private collectors and women who were wise enough to realize the value of a piece of couture designed by Chanel.  A beige tweed suit with bright pink silk braid brought the highest price of the evening, about $4,800 (about $17,200 today.)  The total proceeds for the evening were $138,000 (about $494,000 today.)

Think about that.  Less than $500,000 for 120 items owned and designed by Coco Chanel herself.  If the same auction were held today, I am sure there would have been single items that sold for that price.  What a difference 35 years makes!

This link will take you to a French news report about the auction on Youtube.  In it, you can see some of the clothing and jewelry that was auctioned being worn by models.  You'll also see some of the bidders.  Enjoy!


Swansdown and Jaunty Junior Coats - 1949

$
0
0
The Swansdown line of coats and suits were manufactured by America's largest firm of the sort, Morris W. Haft & Brothers, Inc.  The company also made the Jaunty Juniors line.  Morris Haft and his 6 brothers opened the company in 1916 and were very successful until the company was dissolved in 1950.

In piecing together clues, it appears that Morris W. Haft continued the Swansdown company until his own retirement in 1955.  Haft made a lot of money in the coat and suit industry and formed a philanthropic foundation with his wife Fannie in 1958.  They funded Haft Hall, a dormitory at Syracuse University and the Morris W. and Fannie B. Haft Auditorium at the Fashion Institute in New York.

Swansdown wool tweed coat, 1949
In 1965, Morris Haft sold his personal collection of original Impressionist artworks at auction.  The sale made the news when one of the paintings, Van Gogh's "The Sower" sold for $250.000 to an anonymous bidder.  The sale brought in nearly $1.5 million total.

Full page ads from Charm Magazine, 1949.
3rd image by Ray Solowinski for Charm Magazine, 1949. 


I. Miller Evening Shoes - 1958

$
0
0
"To balance The Empire, gold medallions on lustrous silk satin woven in France by Cotillion. For late day and resort in gold with sparkling colors." 

They just don't make shoes like they used to.  Would I wear these?  In a heartbeat.  Shoes by I. Miller, 1958.

Full page ad from Harper's Bazaar, 1958.  No artist signature on the illustration.

Ceil Chapman - 1955

$
0
0
You know that I love the ad copy that accompanies Bergdorf Goodman ads.  This one is from 1955.

"Chiffon Flame in the Wind by Ceil Chapman $135
Born to dance the night away - our silk chiffon in a smoldering, flaming pink.  It's draped bodice, one-shouldered stole and cloud-formation skirt beautiful accompaniment to music heard or unheard.  Also in black, in sizes 8 to 16."

The stole shown draped around her head is attached at one shoulder and can hang freely down the back of the gown.  Interesting gathered waist extends up into the bust and down into the hips.  $135 is about $1,176 in today's dollar.

Would you chose pink or black?

Photo by Karen Radkai for Bergdorf Goodman.  
Full page ad from Harper's Bazaar, 1955.

Madeleine de Rauch Evening Gown - 1955

$
0
0
Pale blue satin with a wide gray satin sash at the waist.  Blouson bodice over a full length buttoned skirt.  Long sleeves and a wide, wide neckline.  Gown by Madeleine de Rauch, Fall/Winter Couture 1955.  Earrings by Arpad add just the right amount of zing. 

Photo by Richard Avedon for Harper's Bazaar, 1955
Model, Dovima
Fashion editor, Diana Vreeland.

My Christmas Tree

$
0
0
I posted a picture of my Christmas tree over on my Facebook page and several people asked to see close-ups.  I have a skinny silver tree that needed something to jazz it up.  I found turquoise tree lights on sale.  During our recent move, I had taken all the broken bits of vintage rhinestone jewelry, buttons and trim and put them all together in a box.  I pulled out that box, added ornament hangers to the sparkly jewels and buttons and draped the necklaces and bracelets like garland.  At the thrift store this past week, I found two tins full of small glass ornaments from the 50s and they added just the right touch of color the tree needed.  Voila!  Here she is in all her glory!

 She's wearing a tiara at the top and that's a vintage Santa pin made from yarn and cotton batting.

 Rhinestone necklaces, buckles, buttons and vintage ornaments all sparkle in the glow of the lights.

 Finally, a use for that large 1950s pin with missing stones!

Broken rhinestone bracelets are hung from one end as long sparkling icicles, as seen at the right.



Harvey Berin for Bergdorf Goodman, 1956

$
0
0

Harvey Berin is one of my favorite vintage labels. This stunning dress was sold by Bergdorf Goodman and featured in a full page ad in December of 1956. 

"Out of the Blue by Harvey Berin $175
As fragile-looking as a snowflake drifting through the night. Our short evening dress of imported white French point d'esprit appliqued with pale blue French silk Chantilly lace embroidered with rhinestones. Heavenly dressing after dark for sizes 8 to 16. Ready-to-Wear Evening Gowns, Fourth Floor."

Point d'esprit is white lace netting with little polka dots woven into it.  The blue Chantilly lace appliques were individually cut and appliqued onto the white point d'esprit base and the whole thing sparkles with rhinestones.  Maybe someday I'll see this dress in person.  For now, I have to dream about it.

$175 in 1956 is equal to about $1,502 in today's dollar!

Photo by Sharland for Bergdorf Goodman full page ad appearing in Harper's Bazaar, 1956.

Prints for Evening - 1971

$
0
0
Just 15 short years after yesterday's post, this is what high end American fashion looks like.  In one of Diana Vreeland's final issues editing Vogue magazine, she said, "Print's the thing for evening." 

At left:  "The prettiest quilted silk coat, in a happy-go-flower print.  Shaped, belted, and perfect over every little thing you wear for evening.  Originala.  About $395" (about $2,273 in today's dollar.)  Mr. John hat, Graff watch, Golo boots worn over striped stockings.

At right:  "The print is paisley, and it's got you covered. Black, red, pink silk with trumpet sleeves and a wide belt - Jacques Tiffeau's small evening dress. Abraham fabric. About $325" (that's $1,870 in today's dollar.) Wig by Halston, bracelets by Oscar de la Renta.

Photo by Gianni Penati for Vogue magazine, 1971.
Fashion editor, Diana Vreeland.

Happy Holidays!

$
0
0
I'll be taking a short break from blogging until after the new year.  I wish each and every one of you a happy holiday and a safe and healthy new year!


Paul Parnes Suit - 1954

$
0
0
Photographer Gleb Derujinsky worked as a fashion photographer for Harper's Bazaar in the 1950s and 60s.  In 1954, he was given an assignment to photograph tweed suits for an editorial spread.  His inspiration was to pose the models in front of the polished granite of a New York building.  The tweed juxtaposed with the granite gives interesting texture to all the photos.  Shown here is the best one of the bunch.

Paul Parnes designed this tweed suit.  The jacket is edged and decorated with black braid and the decorative gold buttons add just the right touch at the unusual closure.  Suit sold for $145 in 1954 (about $1,265 in today's dollar.)  Hat by Emme (and likely designed by Adolfo.)

Gleb Derujinsky and his wife died in a tragic car accident in their home town of Durango, Colorado in 2011.

Photo by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1954.

Photography by Gleb Derujinsky

$
0
0
Yesterday I showed you a marvelous photo by Gleb Derujinsky from 1954.  In looking at some of his other work online, I found that he often had a wonderfully quirky point of view and used surprising juxtapositions of high fashion mixed with everyday or even strange objects.  Above, the model is wearing a Rose Marie Reid swimsuit while perching atop a dinosaur replica in 1960.

2 models wearing Pierre Cardin dresses pose with a French woman holding baguettes and a poodle with an injured leg.  Photo from 1958.

Models wear dresses by Norman Norell and hats by Halston in a French stairwell, 1961.

Model poses at the early morning fish market in France, 1957.

Model with harp, 1951.

All photos by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar.

Pauline Trigere Dress - 1970

$
0
0
If I had come across this outfit in my travels, I would have dated it to the mid-to-late 70s.  It is my experience that these handkerchief hems and floaty capes are more Disco than Boho.  But I would have been wrong, wrong, wrong.  This full page ad for Nan Duskin that features the Pauline Trigere ensemble is from the spring of 1970.  Still learning after all these years!

 Here's a very similar ensemble by Trigere in the collection of the Met Museum.  This one is dated 1971.

Full page ad for Nan Duskin from Vogue, 1970.Illustration by Duffy.

Weekend Eye Candy - Pauline Trigere, 1973

$
0
0
 My post about Pauline Trigere yesterday brought up this image of a Trigere gown from the Fall of 1973.  Memories!

I sold the identical gown several years ago on my Couture Allure site.  It was a stunner!

Photo by Richard Avedon for Vogue, 1973.

Black and Crystal - 1958

$
0
0
I adore crystal and sparkle, which is why I adore this image.  In the fall of 1958, Gleb Derujinsky chose to photograph several evening looks amidst a plethora of crystal chandeliers for Harper's Bazaar.  I'll be showing you several of these images this week.

Take a closer look at this voluminous evening coat by Anita Modes.  While this coat may have looked a bit too much in a solid fabric, it is perfect in black lace that allows the slender black taffeta cocktail dress underneath to peek through.  The gathered pouf at the hem of the coat is in the same taffeta as the dress.  Quite striking!  Pose that black in the center of all the crystal and you have perfection!

Photo by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1958.
Fashion editor, Diana Vreeland.

Brocade and Crystal - 1958

$
0
0
Yesterday, I showed you a beautiful image taken by Gleb Derujinsky in 1958.  Here is another in the same series.  I'd really love to see behind the scenes shots of Derujinsky setting up the lighting and the placement of the models for these photos.  As you'll see, each is very different.  More tomorrow!

The white silk brocade dress is by Mollie Parnis.  Interesting shape to that armhole.  Dress sold for $145 in 1958 (about $1,169 in today's dollar.)  Hat by Irene of New York.

Photo by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1958.
Fashion editor, Diana Vreeland.

Dior and Crystal - 1958

$
0
0

Another image in the series Gleb Derujinsky did with crystal chandeliers for Harper's Bazaar in 1958.  The model wears a black satin and velvet cocktail dress with coat by Christian Dior - New York and a head hugging cocktail hat by the same designer.  I like the addition of the mirror in this shot.

Photo by Gleb Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1958
Fashion editory, Diana Vreeland

Donald Brooks for Sinclair - 1970

$
0
0
Sinclair Mills was a swimsuit manufacturer.  Over the years, they contracted with several big name designers to produce lines of swimwear.  In the early 60s, Tom Brigance worked for them.  Donald Brooks produced designs for Sinclair in the late 1960s and early 70s, and Giorgio Sant'Angelo followed him starting in 1975.

This bikini with matching maxi skirt was designed by Donald Brooks for Sinclair in 1970.  The halter top has very long strings that tie at the back of the neck and then wrap around and around, however you choose.  The maxi skirt can be worn at the waist, the hips, or even over the shoulders when you've had enough sun.  All in black nylon.  Sold for $95 in 1970 (about $571 in today's dollar.)

Photo by Bergstrom for Vogue, 1970.
Model, Lynn Sutherland


Stripes for Spring - 1955

$
0
0
There's nothing quite like the look of a tiny bolero jacket over a fitted dress.  This set by Minx Modes from 1955 features a cotton stripe jacket in beige, olive and white over a beige rayon dress. Set sold for $18 in 1955 (about $156 in today's dollar.)

Photo by Derujinsky for Harper's Bazaar, 1955.
Viewing all 279 articles
Browse latest View live